THAR DESERT

Location: Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, Gujrat
Area: 446,000 square kilometres
Features: Rolling Sand Hills, Scant Rainfall
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The Great Indian Desert
Thar Desert, the huge unending expanse of burning hot sand is spread over four states in India, namely Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, and Gujarat, and two states in Pakistan covering an area of about 446,000 square kilometres. Deriving its name from 'thul' denoting the sand ridges of the region, Thar stands divided between Sindh region in Pakistan and Rajasthan in India.

A tract of rolling sand hills, the Thar Desert is bordered by the irrigated Indus plains to the west, the Aravalli Range to the southeast, the Rann of Kachchh to the south, and the Punjab plain to the north and northeast. Yielding salt and gypsum, the desert is formed due to the scant rainfall received by the region as a result of the dryness of the prevailing monsoon winds.

Receiving an annual average rainfall of less than 10 inches, the desert is a largely a sun-scorched region of shifting sand dunes, broken rocks, and scrub vegetation. The sparsely populated region has a pastoral economy. In May 1974, India exploded its first nuclear device at Pokhran in the deserts of Rajasthan. The Legend
It is believed that aeons ago, Shri Ram drew an arrow in his bow, targetting Lanka, the island capital where his wife was held captive by the demon king, Ravana. However, such were its destructive powers that the gods pleaded with the Lord to desist from his intended purpose. But the arrow once drawn could not be pulled back and thus Rama pointed the arrow to a far-flung sea. The heat generated by the arrow dried the sea and and in its place arose a dry, arid and hot desert.

Archaeological Evidence
The many excavations of the fossils in the desert have led to the belief that the area was teeming with marine life once upon a time. It is believed that centuries ago, the earliest inhabitants who were a part of an urban civilization that arose 4500 years ago, belonged to this region. Recent excavations of the Indus Valley Civilization reveal that the settlements penetrated deep into the heart of the desert. Archaeologists have found a remarkable resemblance between the citadels and the manner of building along narrow lanes that dissect each other at right angles and more recent settlements.

The Origin
The ancient desert is believed to have been a witness to one of the earliest human civilizations. The origin of this desert is a matter of much controversy. Some consider it to be only 4000 to 10,000 years old. Many others believe that the region started becoming arid much earlier.

Vegetation
Providing nutritive and delectable pasturage, grasses form the main natural vegetation of the Thar desert. These also have medicinal value and hence alkaloids, used for making medicine, and oils for making soap, are also extracted therefrom. There is a great paucity of water and hence, the thar desert vegetation is mostly herbaceous; with the trees very rarely dotting the landscape. On the hills, Gum Arabic Acacia and Euphorbia may be found. The Khajri (Prosopis Cineraria) tree grows throughout the plains. Water is very scarce.

Climate
The area receives very scant rainfall, with the average annual rainfall varying from 100 to 500 mm. With around 90% of the rainfall attributable to southwest monsoon during the months of July and September, there are wide fluctuations in the amount of rainfall from year to year. May and June are the hottest months of the year while January is the coldest month. The mean average temperature varies from a minimum of 24 to 26 degrees C in summer to 4 to 10 degrees C in winter. Dust storms and dust raising winds blowing at very high velocity are very rampant.

The Wild In The Arid Land
Stretches of sand in the desert are interspersed by hillocks and sandy and gravel plains. About 23 species of lizards and 25 species of snakes are found here and several of them are endemic to the region. The thinly populated grasslands support the endangered Great Indian Bustard, the Black Buck, the Chikara (gazelle), and some feathered game, notably the Francolin and Quail. Among the migratory birds, Sand Grouse, Ducks and Geese are common.

RAJASTHAN TRAIN TRAVEL

PALACE ON WHEELS
Ever wondered what luxury in the royal times was all about! Welcome to Palace On Wheels, a luxury train that carries with it an ambience of the Rajputana era and an exciting fairytale journey, which takes the visitor to the imperial cities of Rajasthan every single day. The coaches also carry out an image of the Rajput states with beautiful interiors. Last but not the least the "Royal Treat" for the passengers on board include saloons, bar lounges & libraries in every coach as well as restaurant and organized shopping facilites.

VARANASI GHATS

Location:Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh)
Significance: Sacred Bathing Ghats
Main Ghat: Dasaswamedh Ghat
Along The Banks Of:River Ganges
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In this ancient city of pilgrimage, the bathing ghats are main attraction. People flock here in large numbers every day to take bath and worship in the temples built beside the river bank. The centuries old tradition to offer 'puja' to the rising Sun is still maintained. There are over 100 ghats in Varanasi that line the western bank of the River Ganges.

Dasaswamedh Ghat in Varanasi
One of the main ghats of Varanasi is the 'Dasashvamedh Ghat' or the 'ghat of ten sacrificed horses'. It is said that the sacrifices were made by Lord Brahma to pave path for the return of Shiva after the period of banishment.

The beauty of this ghat has remained unchanged, even after ages of harsh treatment it has undergone. The Ghat has remained unspoiled and provides the same view of the river front, which it has been showing for ages now.

Asi Ghat in Varanasi
The southernmost ghat in the sacred city, the Asi Ghat is situated at the confluence of the rivers Ganga and Asi. Pilgrims consider it particularly holy to bathe here prior to worshipping at a huge lingam, under a peepal tree.

Asisangameshwar, the lord of confluence of the Asi, is the name of another lingam, which is worshipped by the people, in a small marble temple, just off the ghat.

Man Mandir Ghat in Varanasi
Known primarily for its magnificent 18th century observatory equipped with ornate window casings, Man Mandir Ghat was built by the Maharaja of Jaipur . The northern part of the ghat has a fine stone balcony. The pilgrims pay homage to the important lingam of Someshwar, the Lord of the Moon.

Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi
One of the most sacred and the oldest ghats of Varanasi, Manikarnika Ghat is the main burning ghat. Lying at the centre of the five tirthas, Manikarnika Ghat symbolises both creation and destruction, epitomised by the juxtaposition of the sacred well of Manikarnika Kund and the hot, sandy ash-infused soil of cremation grounds where time comes to an end. The kund is said to have been dug by Lord Vishnu at the time of creation.

Lalita Ghat in Varanasi
To the north of the Manikarnika Ghat is Lalita Ghat, well known for its Ganga Keshava Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu and the wooden Nepali temple built in the typical Kathmandu style. The temple houses an image of Pashupateshwar, which is a manifestation of Lord Shiva at Pashupatinath, in the Kathmandu valley.

Some the other famous ghats are Barnasangam, Panchganga, Dattatreya, Kedar, Scindia and Harishchandra Ghats. As the first rays of Sun sparkle on the water of Ganga River, devotees take their dip before performing any other religious activity.

You can go for a boat ride from the Ghats. It is advisable that take a boost before the sunrise and watch the ravishing beauty of Varanasi unfold itself with the rays of dawn.

KUMBH MELA

Location: Allahabad, Haridwar, Ujjain & Nashik
Dedicated To: Lord Vishnu
Significance: Largest fair of Hindus in World
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The Confluence Of Human And The Divine
AT A GLANCE
Since time immemorial, The Kumbh Mela, the greatest of the Indian fairs, has enamoured people from all walks of life. Irrespective of all worldly barriers of caste, creed, region, the Kumbh Mela has wielded a mesmeric influence over the mind and the imagination of the ordinary Indian. The mela brings alive the most spectacular India, now almost relegated to the pages of history.

Symbolically speaking, the forces of creation are collected in one vessel (Kumbh) and a celebration (mela) ensues, which is why this event is called 'Kumbh Mela'. "Kumbh" meaning the pot and "Mela" a sacred Hindu pilgrimage, attracts the world's largest congregation of religious pilgrims.

Millions of Hindu worshippers take a dip in the holy River Ganges at the confluence of the three rivers; the holy Ganges, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati, to wash away their sins as part of a festival, in the small town of Allahabad . The month long Mela (festival) represents a time when the river is believed to turn into purifying nectar, allowing the devotees to cleanse their souls as they bathe.

The Confluence Of Human And The Divine
It is a very important occasion that takes place, every three years, at the following four locations of India, alternatively:

• Prayag, at the confluence of three rivers Ganga , Yamuna and the mythical river, Saraswati,
• Haridwar (in the state of Uttar Pradesh), where the river Ganga enters the plains from Himalayas,
• Ujjain (in Madhya Pradesh), on the banks of Shipra river, and
• Nasik (in Maharashtra), on the banks of Godavari river.

The Purna (complete) Kumbh or Maha Kumbh, the biggest and the most auspicious fair, which falls once every 12 years, is always held at Allahabad, for the 'Sangam' or the confluence of rivers is considered to be exceptionally sacred.

This Mela presents the surrealistic view of a mini-India, where trans-sectarian Hindus are one on the issue of the virtues of the holy bath. All the devotees experience and understand the invisible, ultimate reality of wholeness and oneness, in the same way as does a pilgrimage to Mecca to Muslims and Jerusalem to Christians of different quarters of the world.

Displaying a passionate paradigm of Hinduism both at its best and its worst, it is undoubtedly, the greatest religious fair and the highest state of water symbolism. Though representing the infinitesimal Indian civilization, this mela in its magnificent form, reminds us of our extraordinary religious and spiritual legacy, and helps to maintain national integration by arousing psycho-traditional urges of the people.

The Genus Of Kumbh Mela
Maha Kumbh Mela: This is an extraordinary, once-in-a-life-time Indian festival, occurring every 144 years. The shift of consciousness engendered by the concentration of spiritual energy in Allahabad in India, during this event must be experienced to be believed.

Purna Kumbh Mela: Takes place after every twelve years and the last one took place in January 1989. Millions of Hindus bathe in Ganges for purification. It is an ancient tradition that is sacred and gives inner peace.

Ardh Kumbh: Held in the 6th year after Kumbh Mela, i.e. it falls between two Kumbh Melas. It has got the same religious value and attracts millions of people. It has the same main bathing days as in Kumbh Mela.

Kumbh Mela: The mela is held every three years, rotating through the four cities of Prayag, Nasik, Haridwar and Ujjain.

Magh Mela: The Annual Mini Kumbh is held every year except the years of Kumbh Mela and Ardh Kumbh Mela. Magh Mela is held in the month of Magh (Jan-Feb); hence the name. During this period, about two or three million devotees throng this place.

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Maha Kumbh Mela - Allahabad

Location: Allahabad, Haridwar, Ujjain & Nashik
Dedicated To: Lord Vishnu
Significance: Largest fair of Hindus in World
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THE MAHA MELA 2001

The most awaited event that occurs after a gap of 144 years is considered to be the most auspicious of all the Kumbh Melas. The culmination of twelve Poorna Kumbha melas, one occurring every twelve years, leads to the Maha Kumbha Mela.

The first Maha Kumbh Mela of the millennium had taken place during January-February 2001 and was a month long-festival. This gala event evoked a lot of enthusiasm and religious fervour among the devotees and excitement in the media. The visitors got to witness the largest congregation in the world, on this occasion.

The perfect polarization of various benevolent forces at a specific spot, due to the alignment of planets, constellations, and other celestial bodies, has an extraordinary effect on our planet. This energy is further intensified by the presence of thousands of saints and sages who come together during this cosmic event. This happens every twelve years and twelve of such events, over a span of 144 years, add up to the grand Maha Kumbh Mela.

The Auspicious Bathing Days At Kumbh, 2001
January 9, 2001: Paush Poornima
On this last full moon of winter, many pilgrims reached this sacred site.

January 14, 2001: Makar Sankranti
This day was first of the important bathing days, because according to the religious belief on this festive day the sun enters the constellation, Capricorn.

January 24, 2001: Mauni Amavasya
Called 'new moon of the saints', on this day, the saints bathe in the Sangam, with more than five million people taking their bath in the holy Ganges. It is considered an auspicious day to initiate new pupils into the various holy monastic orders.

January 29, 2001: Vasant Panchami
The fifth day of the brighter half of the lunar month, it marks the advent of spring, in North India.

February 8, 2001: Magh Purnima
This is the full moon of the month Magha (January-February).

February 21, 2001: Maha Shiv Ratri
This is the great night of Lord Shiva and the night is spent singing devotional songs, in praise of the God.

The Camp, 2001
For the first time at this festival, a camp offered luxurious accommodation, security and a unique atmosphere to participate in many activities, both within and outside the camp.

The campsite, set on a six-acre plot on the banks of Ganges will consist of two blocks namely, Accommodation and Dining Block and the Activity Block.

Tented accommodations were the only ones with luxurious facilities. These tents were also situated at a safer distance from the maddening crowds. The tents were traditionally designed, with all modern amenities. There was also a reception tent with money changing facilities, a well-equipped medical dispensary and dining tents.

Attractions And Activities At Mela, 2001
The Kumbh Mela has become an important meeting ground for the devout Hindus and its importance has not diminished over the years. The Kumbh is not without its spiritual debates and disputes on divinity, where new doctrines are propounded and debated and existing ones are reviewed.

For thousands of traders, shopkeepers and peddlers who gather there, the mela means business and profits. Many come to enjoy the lively and colorful bustle of crowds buying curios and magical stuff and generally having fun.
Daily Yoga Classes for beginners were held and the training imparted by teachers approved by the All India Yoga Institute.
Kerala Herbal Oil Massage And Naturotherapy Centre was a prime attraction with basic oil massage followed by a steam bath and various other courses.
Daily New Age Workshop conducted free workshops and hold discussions on New Age theories.
Daily Audio-Visual Presentation on Indian culture, history, spirituality, science and literature offered an excellent opportunity for interaction, to the like-minded people.
Resident Astrologer was available 24 hours a day.
Crafts Mela became an opportunity to the craftsmen from all over India to display their crafts and people will be able to buy from them directly.
Daily Evening Performances By Eminent Indian Artists, both classical and folk, was the most breathtaking feature of the mela.
Ayurvedic, Herbal Medicines And Body Shop sold herbal body products patented and approved by FDA.
Media And Business Centre has a direct TV uplink and Internet access.

HOW TO GET THERE

By Air: Closest airport is Varanasi, which is connected by daily flights from Delhi, from where the camp is about 2-1/2 hours drive.
By Rail: Allahabad, which is 15 kms away, is the closest railway station.
By Road: It is on National Highway 2 & 27 that are connected to the rest of the country by good motorable, all-weather roads.

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KUMBH MELA - NASHIK

Location: Right Bank River Godavari
Altitude: 565 mt. Above Sea-Level
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July 27 to Sept 7, 2003
Kumbha Mela derives its name from the immortal - Pot of Nectar - described in ancient Vedic scriptures known as the Puranas. Kumbha in Sanskrit language means 'pot or pitcher’. Mela means 'festival'. Thus Kumbha Mela literally means festival of the pot. Or in this case a festival celebrating the appearance of the pot of nectar.
The Kumbh Mela 2003-2004 is the most important Hindu spiritual gathering, which takes place once every 12 years. The mela will be the largest single gathering of humanity on the planet. It is visited by a number of foreign visitors as well. The Kumbh Mela is an ancient festival finding mention even in the epic Mahabharat. The fair will start on 27 July 2003 with the first holy bath in the river Godavari (first “Snan”). Thousands of Sadhus and devotees will gather at Nasik near Trimbakeshwar for the event. The final ritual is on August 27, 2004.

NASHIK- Nashik is one of the important religious centre of Maharashtra, located on the bank of the Godavari river 565m above sea level and about 185-km from Mumbai. It is particularly a city of temples and there are around 2,000 temples, both big and small. As the legendary home of Rama, hero of the Ramayana, Nashik is one of the most sacred places of Hinduism; ancient Buddhist, Jain temples are also here. Traditionally the place attracts tourists, as it is known to be holly place. Hundreds of pilgrims arrive here to take a holly dip at the 'Ramkund' in the river Godavari, which is considered the 'Ganges of the south'. Ramkund is the spot where the river Godavari turns to right at an angle of 90 degrees and gains importance, as Lord Ram is said to have taken his daily bath here, during his stay at Nashik.

TRIMBAKESHWAR - One of the holy places of not only Maharashtra but the whole of India is near Nashik. Trimbakeshwar is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas in India. About 38 kms away from Nashik Road Railway Station, it is connected by bus and taxi service.

The Auspicious Bathing Days At Kumbh, 2003
The main bathing dates are Aug. 12 and Aug. 27.July 27th, 2003 : Kumbh mela Dhwaja Rohan Shravan Shuddha (Start of the Kumbhmela) at Trimbakeshwar & Nashik.

Aug. 08th, 2003 :
Shravan Shuddha Pratham (First) Snan at Nashik.

Aug. 12th, 2003 :
Shravan Shuddha Pornima ( Full Moon ) Pratham (First) Snan at Trimbakeshwar.

Aug. 27th, 2003 : Maha Parva - Bhadrapad Krushna Amavasya Dwitiya (Second) Snan at Nashik.

Aug. 27th, 2003 :
Maha Parva - Bhadrapad Krushna Amavasya Dwitiya (Second) Snan at Trimbakeshwar.

Sept. 01st, 2003 :
Maha Parva - Bhadrapad, Rushipanchami Dwitiya (Second) Snan at Nashik.

Sept. 07th, 2003 :
Bhadrapad Shukla, Vaman Dwadashi Tritiya (Third) Snan at Trimbakeshwar.

Aug. 27th, 2004 :
Kumbh mela Samapti (End of the Kumbhmela) Trimbakeshwar & Nashik.

HOW TO REACH NASHIK

By Air: Nearest airport from Nashik is at Mumbaii , which is 185-km away from the city.

By Rail: Nashik is 185-kms from Mumbai and is well connected by road. Pune-Nashik highway is 220-kms away from the city. There are also several private and state buses available between Mumbai/Thane and Nashik.

By Road: Nashik is 185-kms from Mumbai and is well connected by road. Pune-Nashik highway is 220-kms away from the city. There are also several private and state buses available between Mumbai/Thane and Nashik.

Local Transport: Visitors can use taxis, tourist cars, auto-rickshaws and vans, which are easily available and ideal for families and groups.

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KUMBH MELA - UJJAIN

Location: Right Bank River Shipra
Original Name: Avantika
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05th April to 05th May, 2004
The very auspicious Kumbh Mela that takes place once every 6 years in India is falling in April to May 2004 at Simhastha, Ujjain.
Millions of years ago in a celestial wrest for a pot of nectar, four precious drops fell on the earth creating four of India's holiest places where millions gather once every 12 years (one year for every day of the battle) to take a dip in the holy water thus breaking the cycle of death and rebirth...the Kumbh Mela. Allahabad, Nashik, Ujjain and Haridwar are the four places where the Kumbh Mela takes place and come 2004, Ujjain is where the action is as the city turns saffron for the spectacular event that is the Simhastha. Literally translated 'simhastha' signifies the movement of the planets into the zodiac of Leo or Simha Rashi.

UJJAIN- Ujjain is situated on the right bank of River bank or River Shipra. It is a very holy city for the Hindus a site for the triennial Kumbh Mela. According to Hindu scriptures, it was originally called Avantika. There is an interesting tale behind the sanctity of the city. It's origin is ascribed to the mythological legend of Sagar Manbthan (churning of the primordial ocean to discover the pot of nectar). The story goes that after the nectar was discovered, there was a chase between the gods and the demons to have the nectar first and thus attain immortality. During this chase a drop of nectar spilled and fell on Ujjain, thus making the city sacred.

Five Auspicious Bathing Days At Kumbh Mela, 2004

Monday, 05th April 2004: PURNIMA

Monday, 19th April 2004: KRISHNA AMAVASYA

Thursday, 22nd April 2004: SHUKLA TRITIYA

Saturday, 24th April 2004: SHUKLA PANCHMI

Tuesday, 4th May 2004: SHAHI SNAN PURNIMA

HOW TO REACH UJJAIN

By Air: The nearest airport is at Indore (55 km), it is connected by air to Bhopal, Bombay, Delhi and Gwalior.

By Rail: Ujjain is an important railway station on the Western Railway network and connected with most of the major cities in India.

By Road: It is within easy driving distance from Bhopal (183 km), Indore (55 km) and Mandu (158 km).

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HISTORY

Location: Allahabad, Haridwar, Ujjain & Nashik
Dedicated To: Lord Vishnu
Significance: Largest fair of Hindus in World
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The Genesis
The observance of Kumbha Mela dates back to the Vedic times, before the creation of the universe. There is a legend that speaks for the origin of the Kumbh Mela.

Thousands of years ago, perhaps in the Vedic period, gods and demons agreed to work together for obtaining 'amrita' (the nectar of immortality) from the churning of the Milky Ocean, and to share the things thus obtained, equally.

Nevertheless, when the Kumbha (pot) containing the ambrosia appeared, the demons ran away with the pot and were chased by the gods. There ensued a battle in the skies, for the possession of the pot for twelve days and twelve nights (equivalent to twelve human years) between the gods and the demons. It is said that during the battle, drops of 'amrita' fell on to four places: Prayag, Haridwar, Ujjain and Nasik. Thus, Kumbha Mela is observed at these four locations, where the nectar fell.

History Speaks
Historically, the origin of the Kumbh Mela can be traced to the river festivals in which pots of grains were soaked in the waters of the holy rivers and put to seed, with the rest of the grain, during sowing time. It has also been considered to be a pre-Aryan fertility ritual, for the Kumbh symbolizes the Mother Goddess and also the womb, the generative pot. Rivers, as givers of life and agents of fertility, became 'tirthas' (holy places) as they act as bridges between heaven and earth, the mortal humans and the eternal divine.

Records of the celebration of this festival go back to the 10th century, where mention is found in various Indian art forms and in writings of Arabian, French and English travellers. The Mela finds mention in the Vedas and also in Ramayana, written by Valmiki. Photographs of the gala event are available from the last fifty years.

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COSMIC CONFIGURATION

Location: Allahabad, Haridwar, Ujjain & Nashik
Dedicated To: Lord Vishnu
Significance: Largest fair of Hindus in World
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THE COSMIC CONFIGURATION
According to astrologers, the 'Kumbh Fair' takes place when the planet Jupiter enters Aquarius and the Sun enters Aries. The particular year when the Kumbha Mela is held at any one of the four holy places is determined, with reference to an almanac.

At Prayag, the period is the Hindu month of Magha (January-February) and the highest merit attached is to the bath taken on the new moon day, when the Jupiter is in Aries and both the Sun and the Moon are in Capricorn.

At Hardwar, Kumbha is held in Phalgun and Chaitra, when the Sun passes to Aries and Jupiter is in Aquarius. The bath at Ujjain, on the bank of the river Kshipra is fixed for the month of Vatshakha, when these planets are in Libra.

At Nasik, on the banks of Godavari (Narmada), the function is timed to take place in Shravana, when the three planets are in Cancer. Thus, by rotation, the Kumbha Mela is held at these places.

In the case of Prayag and Hardwar, in between two Purna (full) Kumbha Melas, an intermediate one, called the Ardha (half) Kumbha is also held. The Ardha Kumbha Mela is held at Prayag and Hardwar in the years in which Purna Kumbha Mela is held at Ujjain and Nasik, respectively.

Every year in the month of Magha (January-February) a fair, known as Magha Mela, is held at Prayag at the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and the Saraswati and is attended by thousands. It begins on the Makara Sankranti, the last day of the preceding month Pausa.

The Magha Mela is replaced by Maha Kumbha Mela every twelfth year, when the Sun is in Aries and the planet Jupiter in Aquarius (Kumbha).

The People
The ascetics and sadhus are an integral part of the Kumbh. One of the aims of all devout Hindus, who make a pilgrimage to the Kumbh, is to have an audience, 'darshan' of these holy men. By touching their feet and listening to them, their followers hope to gain spiritual enlightenment.

The most conspicuous sadhus at the Kumbh are the 'Nagas' or the naked sadhus. The 'Nagas' smear their bodies with ash and sport long, matted hair. Constant exposure to the elements and rigorous self-control makes them impervious to the extremes of hot and cold.

Besides the 'Nagas', there are several other types of sadhus-the 'Urdhwavahurs', who practice severe physical austerities and their bodies are usually emaciated and limbs shrivelled. There are the 'Parivajakas', who live under a vow of silence and go about tinkling little bells to get people out of their way. The 'Shirshasins' stand all 24 hours and sleep with their heads resting on a vertical pole attached to an oblong pole or meditate for long hours standing on their heads. Spending the entire month of Kumbh on the banks of Ganga, meditating, performing rituals and bathing thrice a day, are the 'kalpvasis'.

The Rituals
The main rite performed at the mela is the ritual bath. Orthodox Hindus, who give great importance to the performance of ritualistic actions, believe that a dip in the sacred waters on the auspicious day will cleanse them of all the evil. This ensures their salvation or freedom from the cycle of birth and death.

Ritual bathing is a public act and is performed in the open and ideally on the banks of a river or stream. It includes the complete submergence of the body under water and a libation to the sun. The most auspicious day for the ritual bath at Kumbh is on the day of the new moon.

GOA

Location:Western Ghats of India
Famous Beaches: Baga, Anjuna, Calangute
Beach Attractions: Beach Shacks, Anjuna Flea Market
Best Time To Visit: September To April
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At every twist and turn of the undulating Goan coast there are alluring little coves and bays each completely different and each with its own special charm. Along the coast are picturesque villages with tall white washed churches and red tiled shouses that nestle into the lush green of the Goan countryside. Do visit the northern part of Goa, which has got some of the finest beaches are edged by tall leterite cliffs including Calagute, Baga, Anjuna, Vagator and Chapora with an old fort overlooking the beach. The Arambol Beach has a delightful fresh water pond at the base of a verdant slope. The southern beaches with their expanses of sparkling white sand and calm sea comprise of Bogmolo, Colva, Benaulim, Cavelossim And Mabor. The Tiny bay at Palolem is quite breathtaking and definitely merits a visit.

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ANJUNA BEACH

Location: 8-km West Of Mapusa, North Goa
Main Attraction:Anjuna Flea Market, Chapora Fort, Beach Parties
Best Time To Visit: November To March
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With its fluorescent painted palm trees and infamous full moon parties, ANJUNA, 8-km west of Mapusa, is Goa at its most "alternative". Designer leather and lycra may have superseded cotton Kaftans, but most people's reasons for coming are the same as they were in the 1970s: dancing and lying on the beach slurping tropical fruit. While browsing in the area have a day trip to the famous flea market

The Beach
One of the main sources of Anjuna's enduring popularity as a hippy hang out is its superb beach. Fringed by groves of swaying coconut palms, the curve of soft white sand conforms more closely to the archetypal vision of paradise than any other beach on the north coast. Bathing is generally safer than at most of the nearby resorts, too, especially at the more peaceful southern end, where a rocky headland keeps the sea calm and the undertow to a minimum.

North of the market ground, the beach broadens, running in an uninterrupted kilometre long stretch of steeply shelving sand to a low red cliff. The village bus park lies on top of this high ground, near a crop of small cafes, bars and Kashmiri handicraft stalls. Every lunch hour, tour parties from Panjim pull in here for a beer, before heading home again, leaving the ragged army of sun weary westerners to enjoy the sunset.

The Visiting Season
The season in Anjuna starts in early November, when most of the long staying regulars show up, and peters out in late March, when they drift off again. During the Christmas and New Year rush, the village is inundated with a mixed crowd of round the world backpackers, refugees from the British club scene and revellers from all over India, lured by the promise of the big beach parties.

Outside peak season, however, Anjuna has a surprisingly simple unhurried atmosphere- due, in no small part, to the shortage of places to stay. Most visitors who come here on market day or for the raves travel in from other resorts. That said, a couple of large package tour hotels have appeared over the past couple of years, and this is bound to radically alter the mix of visitors here.

LEISURE

NIGHTLIFE
Thanks to the kill-joy attitude reputation, Anjuna is a rave-venue for big parties that take place over here from time to time, especially around the Christmas-New Year full moon period. Smaller events may also happen whenever some occasion or celebration comes up.

At other times, nightlife centres on the Shore Bar, in the middle of the beach, which has a pounding sound system. The biggest crowds show up accompanied by the latest ambient trance mixes from London. The music gains pace as the evening wears on winding up around 11.00 pm, when there's an exodus over to the Guru Bar, further up the beach, or to the Primrose Café in Vagator, both of which stay open until after midnight.

Musical Amusements
When it eventually gets it act together, The Alcove, over looking Ozran Vagator Beach, will be another worthwhile nightspot. More mainstream musical entertainment is on offer at Temptations, in the Red Cab Inn just below Starco's crossroads, where Indian classical recitals and guitar based cover bands feature with fire dancers on Mondays, starting at 7.00 pm.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Buses from Mapusa and Panjim drop passengers at various points along the Tarmac Road across the top of the village, which turns right towards Chapora at the Main Starco's crossroads. The Starco's crossroads has a couple of small stores, a motorcycle taxi rank, and functions as a de facto village square and bus stand.

PLACES TO STAY

Most of Anjuna's very limited accommodation consists of small-unfurnished houses. Some of the resorts and guesthouse can be found at the main Starco's crossroads area. But the best choice for accommodation is available in Calangute, Baga or nearby Vagator or Chapora.

EATING OUT
Both the beachfront and village at Anjuna are awash with good places to eat and drink. Most are simple semi open air, thatched palm leaf affairs, specializing in fish and western food. All serve cold beer, invariably with thumping techno music in the background. On the beach, one'll also be approached every ten minutes by women selling fresh fruit, including watermelons, pineapples and locally grown coconuts.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Exchange: The Bank Of Baroda on the Mapusa Road will make encashment against visa cards, but doesn't do foreign exchange, nor is it a good place to leave valuables.

Post Office: The post office, on theMapusa Road, 1-km inland, has an efficient Poste Restante counter.

Note: Whenever one comes, keep a close eye on one's valuables. Theft, particularly from the beach, is a big problem. Party nights are the worst; if one stays out late, keep the money and papers with oneself, or lock them somewhere secure. Thieves have even been known to break into local houses by lifting tiles off the roof.
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BAGA BEACH

Location: 10-km West Of Mapusa, North Goa
Famous As: Baga's nightlife, Beach Shacks
Nearby Attraction: Calangute Beach
Best Time To Visit: December To February
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A Charming Combination Of Land And Sea
Baga, 10-km west of Mapusa, is basically an extension of Calangute; even the locals are unable to decide where ends and the other begin. Lying in the lee of a rocky, wooded headland, the only difference between this far northern end of the beach and its more congested centre is that the scenery here is marginally more varied and picturesque.

A small river flows into the sea at the top of the village, below a broad spur of soft white sand, from where a dirt track strikes across an expanse of paddy fields towards Anjuna. The old red tiled fishers houses behind the dunes have long been swamped by gaudily lit bars, Tandoori terrace restaurants and handicraft shops, but one doesn't feel quite so hemmed in as at Calangute.

PLACES TO STAY

The rough-and-ready places dotted around the fishing village usually have space for accommodation. Reasonable budget houses and rooms for rent are also available on the quieter north side of the river.

LEISURE

EATING OUT
Baga has arguably the best range of restaurants in Goa, from standard beach shacks to swish pizzerias and terrace cafes serving real espresso coffee. Because of the stiff competition, prices are generally reasonable and the quality of cooking high. For a splurge, splash out on a candlelit dinner at J & A's Riverside Trattoria, or a traditional Goan meal at the eccentric Casa Portuguesa.

NIGHTLIFE
Thanks to the droves of predominantly British package tourists who stay here, Baga's nightlife is the liveliest in the area. Most of the revellers end up at Tito's, which has the only dance floor and hefty sound system outside a big hotel for miles. Women are allowed in for free; "unaccompanied" men and couples have to pay.
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BENAULIM BEACH

Location: 7-km West Of Margao, South Goa
Famous As: A Quite Beach, For Seafood
Nearby Attraction: Colva & Varca Beaches
Best Time To Visit: November To March
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According to Hindu mythology Goa was created when the sage Shri Parasurama, Lord Vishnu's sixth incarnation, fired an arrow into the sea from the top of the Western Ghats and ordered the waters to recede. The spot where the shaft fell to earth, known in Sanskrit as "Banali" and later corrupted by the Portuguese to Benaulim, lies in the centre of Colva Beach, 7-km west of Margao.

A Sleepy Village
Only a decade ago, this fishing and rice-farming village, scattered around the coconut groves and paddy fields between the main Colva-Mobor Road and the dunes, had barely made it onto the backpackers map. Now, the shady lane leading through it is studded with guesthouses and souvenir stalls while the paddy fields on the outskirts are gradually disappearing under a rash of gigantic luxury resorts and time-share apartment blocks. For the time being, however, this remains a peaceful and welcoming place to unwind.

Either side of the sand blown beachfront, the gently shelving sands shimmer away almost to the horizon, litered with photogenic wooden fishing boats that provide welcome shade if the walk from the palm trees to the sea gets too much. Hawkers, itinerant masseurs and fruit wallahs appear from time to time, but one can easily escape them by heading south towards neighbouring Varca, where tourism has thus far made little impact.

Moreover, the sea is safe for swimming, being generally jellyfish-free, while the village itself boasts a few serviceable Bars and restaurants, several telephone booths and a couple of stores.

LEISURE

EATING OUT
Benaulim's proximity to Margao market, along with the presence of its Christian Fishing Community, means its restaurants serve the most succulent, competitively priced seafood in Goa. The most popular places to eat are the shack cafes in the beachfront area, where Johncy's catches most of the passing custom.

However, one'll find better food at lower prices in the smaller terrace restaurants further along the beach and scattered around the village. Arguably the best of bunch is the Palm Grove's Congenial Garden Restaurant, and there is a string of lookalike café-bars, which dot the lane leading to it. For fresh seafood, though, the Hawaii Shack is hard to beat.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Buses from Margao, Colva, Varca, Cavelossim and Mobor roll through Benaulim every thirty minutes, dropping passengers at the Maria Hall crossroads.

PLACES TO STAY

Benaulim's accommodation consists largely of small budget guesthouses, scattered around the lanes 1-km or so back from the beach. During peak season, the village's few mid range hotels tend to be fully booked, so reserve in advance if one wants to stay in one of these.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Ranged around this busy junction are two well stocked general stores, a couple of café bars, a bank, pharmacy, laundry and the taxi and auto rickshaw rank, from where one can pick up transport to the beach 2-km west.

Bikes On Rent: Signs offering bicycles and motorbikes for rent are dotted along the lane leading to the sea: rates are standard, descending in proportion to the length of time one keeps the vehicle.

Exchange: The nearest place to change money is one of the banks in Margao. Benaulim's Bank Of Baroda only handles visa card encashments; the L'Amour Beach Resort also has a Foreign Exchange Counter for guests.

Airline Bookings: International and domestic flights can be booked or reconfirmed at meeting point travel, in the centre of the village, which also does deluxe bus, train and catamaran ticketing for cities elsewhere in India.
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BOGMALO BEACH

Location: 8-km Nothwest Of Vasco Da Gama, South Goa
Main Attraction: Diving Adventure
Nearby Attraction: Colva Beach
Best Time To Visit: December To February
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Immediately south of the airport, the Mormugao peninsula's sun parched central plateau tumbles to a flat-bottomed valley lined with coconut trees and redbrick huts. The sandy beach at the end of the cove would be even more picturesque were it not for the monstrous multi-storey edifice perched above it. Until Oberoi erected a huge five star hotel here, Bogmalo was just another small fishing village, hemmed in by a pair of palm fringed headlands at the northern end of Colva bay.

A Former Fishing Village, Today's Tourist Hangout
The village is still present at Bogmalo, complete with a tiny-whitewashed Chapel and gangs of hogs nosing through the rubbish, but its environs have been transformed. Pricey café-bars blaring Western music have crept up the beach, while the clearing below the hotel is prowled by assiduous Kashmiri handicraft vendors.

Even so, compared with Calangute Or Colva, Bogmalo is still a small-scale resort. As long as one hasn't come to Goa to get away from it all or party all night, then one'll find Bogmalo congenial enough. The beach is clean and not too crowded, the water reasonably safe for swimming, and there are plenty of places to eat, drink and shop. If, on the other hand, one is looking for somewhere not yet, on the package tourist map, one'll be better off further south, at the far end of Colva Beach or beyond.

DIVING AT BOGMALO
A small dive school recently opened up in Bogmalo and is one of the few places in India where one can do PADI-approved Open water diving courses. Operating out of Joet's guesthouse, at the far end of the beach, the British run outift also offers half day "Try Dives" for novices, guided dives to shipwreck sites and coral beds off the coast and tuition for more advanced qualifications.

For More Information: Contact - Goa Diving, House No. 145P, Chapel Bhat, Chicalim, Near Bogmalo.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Bogmalo can be reached by bus or taxi from Vasco da Gama, 8-km northwest. It's also near enough to the airport for a last minute dip before catching a plane.

PLACES TO STAY

As this is primarily a package tour destination, walk in accommodation is very limited and best booked ahead. There are few luxurious option present over here, overlooking the beach. Bogmalo's other mid range guesthouses, are much more comfortable for short stay purposes.

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CALANGUTE BEACH

Location: 16-km From Panjim, North Goa
Famous As: Peaceful Fishing Village, Kashmiri-run Handicraft, Tibetan stalls
Nearby Attraction: Baga Beach
Best Time To Visit: December To February
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A Topping On Tourist Pie
A mere 45 minute bus ride up the coast from the capital, Calangute is Goa's busiest and most commercialized resort, and the flagship of the state government's bid for a bigger slice of India's package-tourist pie. In the 1970s and early 1980s, this once peaceful fishing Village epitomized Goa's reputation as a haven for hedonistic hippies.

The Town And The Beach
The road from the town to the beach is lined with Kashmiri-run handicraft boutiques and Tibetan stalls selling Himalayan curios and jewellery. The quality of the goods - mainly Rajasthani, Gujarati and Karnatakan textiles - is generally high. Haggle hard and don't be afraid to walk away from a heavy sales pitch - the same stuff crops up every Wednesday at Anjuna's flea market.

The beach itself is nothing special, with steeply shelving sand, but is more than large enough to accommodate the huge numbers of high-season visitors.

To escape the hawkers, head fifteen minutes or so south of the main beachfront area, towards the rows of olf wooden boats moored below the dunes. In this virtually hawker-free zone, one'll only come across teams of villagers hauling in hand nets at high tide or fishermen fixing their tack under bamboo sun shakes.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Buses from Mapusa and Panjim pull in at the small bus stand cum Market Square in the centre of Calangute. Some continue to Baga, stopping at the crossroads behind the beach en route. Get off here if one can, as it's closer to most of the hotels.

PLACES TO STAY

Calangute is chock-full of places to stay. Demand only outstrips supply in the Christmas - New Year high season, and at Diwali. Most of the inexpensive accommodation consists of small rooms in family homes, or in concrete annexes tacked onto the backs of houses. The top hotels are nearly all gleaming white, exclusive villa complexes with pools, and direct beach access.

EATING OUT
Calangute's bars and restaurants are mainly grouped around the entrance to the beach and along the Baga road. As with most Goan resorts, the accent is firmly on seafood, though many places tack on a few token vegetarian dishes. Western breakfasts also feature prominently.

Nightlife In Calangute Beach
Thanks to repeated crackdowns by the Goan police on parties and loud music, Calangute's nightlife is surprisingly tame. All but a handful of the bars wind up by 10.00 pm. One notable exception is Tito's at the Baga end of the beach, which stays open until 11.00 pm off-season and into the small hours in late December and January.

Unfortunately, the only other places that consistently stay open through the night are a couple of dull hippy hang-outs in the woods to the south of the beach road; Pete's Bar, a perennial favourite next door to Angela P. Fernandes, is generally the most lively, offering affordable drinks, backgammon sets and relentless reggae. Further afield, Bob's Inn, between Calangute and Candolim, is another popular bar, famed less for its court around a large table in the front bar.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Bikes On Rent: Motorcycle taxis hang around the little sandy square behind GTDC's tourist resort, next to the steps that drop down to the beachfront. Ask around here if one wants to rent a motorcycle. Rates are standard; the nearest filling station is five minutes' walk from the beach, back towards the market on the right-hand side of the main road. Bicycles are also widely available for rent.

Exchange: There's a State Bank Of India on the main street, but the best place to change money and Travellers Cheques is Wall Street finances, opposite the petrol pump and in the shopping complex on the beachfront. If they are closed, try the fast and friendly ENEM finances in Baga. For visa encashments, go to The Bank Of Baroda, just north of the temple and market area; a flat commission fee is levied on all visa withdrawls.

A Taste Of Indian Heritage
Finally, don't miss the chance to sample some real Indian culture while you are in Calangute. The Ekrkar Art Gallery, in Gaura Vaddo, at the south end of town, hosts evenings of classical music and dance every Tuesday and complete with incense and evocative candlelight. The recitals, performed by students and teachers from Panjim's Kala Academy, are kept comfortably short for the benefit of Western visitors, and are preceded by a short introductory talk. Tickets are available in advance or at the door.

Note: Wherever one goes, though, remember that Calangute's no nudism rule is for real and enforced by special police patrols; this includes topless bathing
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CANDOLIM BEACH

Location: North Goa
Famous As: Sedate Resort
Nearby Attractions: Aguda Fort & Calangute Beach
Best Time To Visit: December To February
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Four or five years ago, Candolim, at the far southern end of Calangute beach, was a surprisingly sedate resort, appealing to an odd mixture of middle-class Bombayites, and Burgundy-clad Sannyasins taking a break from the Rajneesh Ashram at Pune. Times, however, have changed.

Now, large-scale package holiday complexes jostle for space behind the dunes and the increasingly crowded beach has sprouted ranks of sun beds. On the plus side, Candolim has plenty of pleasant places to stay, many of them tucked away down quiet sandy lanes and better value than comparable guesthouses in nearby Calangute, making this a good first stop if one has just arrived in Goa and are planning to head further north after finding one's feet.

The Aguda Fort
Immediately south of Candolim, a long peninsula extends into the sea, bringing the seven-kilometre white sandy beach to an abrupt end. Aguda Fort , which crowns the rocky flattened top of the headland, is the best-preserved Portuguese bastion in Goa. Built in 1612 to protect the northern shores of the Mandovi estuary from Dutch and Maratha raiders, it is home to several natural springs, the first source of drinking water available to ships arriving in Goa after the long sea voyage from Lisbon.

LEISURE

EATING OUT
Candolim's numerous beach cafes are a cut above your average seafood shacks, with pot plants, state-of-the-art sound systems and prices to match. Basically, the farther from the Taj Complex one ventures, the more realistic the prices become. The main road is also dotted with restaurants serving the usual selection of fresh fish dishes, with a handful of continental options thrown in.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Buses to and from Panjim stop every twenty minutes or so at the stand opposite the Casa Sea Shell, in the middle of Candolim. A few also continue south to the fort Aguada Beach Resort Terminus, from where services depart every thirty minutes for the capital via Nerul village. Taxis wait outside the major resort hotels and can be flagged down on the main road.

PLACES TO STAY

Candolim is charter-holiday land, so accommodation tends to be a little expensive for most of the season. The best place to start looking is at the end of the lane that leads to the sea opposite the Canara Bank, at the north side of the village.
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CAVELOSSIM BEACH

Location : 11-km South Of Colva, South Goa
Famous For: Ferry Ride
Nearby Attraction: Colva Beach, Mabor
Best Time To Visit: November To March
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Sleepy Cavelossim, straddling the coast road 11-km south of Colva, is the last major settlement in southwest Salcete: its only claim to fame. A short way beyond the village's picturesque church square, a narrow lane veers left across an open expanse of paddy fields to the Cavelossim-Assolna ferry crossing near the mouth of the Sal River.

If one is heading south to Canacona, turn left off the ferry and carry on as far as Assolna Bazaar, clustered around a junction on the main road. A right turn at this crossroads puts you on track for Canacona.

MABOR
Carry straight on at the junction just past the square in Cavelossim and one'll eventually arrive at Mobor, where Colva beach fades into a rounded sandy spur at the mouth of the Assolna River. This would be an exquisite spot if it weren't the site of South Goa's largest, and most obtrusive, package tourist enclave.

Crammed together on to a narrow spit of dunes between the surf and estuary, the holiday inns and beach resorts combine to create a holiday camp ambience that has as little to do with Goa as their architecture.

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CHAPORA BEACH

Location: 10-km From Mapusa, North Goa
Main Attraction: Chapora Fort
Nearby Attraction: Vagator Beach, Anjuna Beach, Siolim
Best Time To Visit: November To March
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A Leisure Paradise
Crouched in the shadow of a Portuguese fort on the opposite, northern side of the headland from Vagator, Chapora, 10-km from Mapusa, is a lat busier than most north coast villages. Dependent on fishing and boat building, it has, to a great extent, retained a life of its own independent of tourism. The workaday indifference to the annual invasion of Westerners is most evident on the main street, lined with as many regular stores as travellers cafes and restaurants.

It's unlikely that Chapora will ever develop into a major resort, either. Tucked away under a dense canopy of trees on the muddy southern shore of a river estuary, it lacks both the space and the white sand that have pulled crowds to Calangute and Colva.

The Pit Stop
If one has one's own transport however, Chapora is a good base from which to explore the region: Vagator is on the doorstep, Anjuna is a short ride to the south, and the ferry crossing at Siolim --gateway to the remote north of the state - is barely fifteen minutes away by road. The village is also well connected by bus to Mapusa, and there are plenty of sociable bars and cafes to hang out in. Apart from the guesthouses along the main road, most of the places to stay are long stay houses in the woods.

Chapora Old fort
Chapora's chief landmark is its venerable Old Fort, most easily reached from the Vagator side of the hill. At low tide, one can also walk around the bottom of the headland, via the anchorage, and the secluded coves beyond it, to big Vagator, then head up the hill from there.

LEISURE

Eating Out
Finding somewhere to eat in Chapora is easy: just take a pick from the crop of affordable little cafes and restaurants on the main street. The popular Welcome, halfway down, offers a reasonable selection of inexpensive and filling seafood, Western and Vegetarian dishes, plus relentless reggae and techno music, and backgammon sets. The Preyanka, nearby, is in much the same mould, but has a few more Indian and Chinese options. If one is suffering from chilli burn afterwards, Scarlet Cold Drinks and the Sai Ganesh Café, both a short way east of the main street, knock up deliciously cool fresh fruit milkshakes.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Direct buses arrive at Chapora three times daily from Panjim, and every fifteen minutes from Mapusa, with departures until 7.00 pm. Motorcycle taxis hang around the old banyan tree at the far end of the main street, near where the buses pull in.

PLACES TO STAY

If one wants to check in to a reasonable guesthouse try the west side of the main street in Chapora.
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COLVA BEACH

Location: 6-km From Margao, South Goa
Main Attractions: Shack Cafés, Night Club
Best Time To Visit: December To February
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A hot season retreat for Margao's moneyed middle classes since long before Independence, Colva is the oldest and largest of South Goa's resorts. Its leafy outlying 'Vaddos', or wards are pleasant enough, dotted with colonial style villas and ramshackle fishing huts. The beachfront is a collection of concrete hotels, souvenir stalls and fly blown snack bars strewn around a central roundabout.

Each afternoon, busloads of visitors from out of state mill around here after a paddle on the crowded foreshore, pestered by postcard wallahs and the little urchins whose families camp on the outskirts. If, however, one wants to steer clear of this central market area, and stick to the cleaner, greener outskirts, Colva can be a pleasant and convenient place to stay for a while. Swimming is relatively safe while the sand, at least away from the beachfront, is spotless and scattered with beautiful shells.

LEISURE

EATING OUT
When the season is in full swing, Colva's beachfront sprouts a row of large seafood restaurants on stilts, some of them very ritzy indeed, with tablecloths, candles and smooth music. The prices in these places are top whack, but the portions are correspondingly vast, and standards generally high. Budget travellers' are equally well catered for, with a sprinkling of Shack Cafés at the less frequented ends of the beach, and along the Vasco Road.

NIGHTLIFE
Although never an established rave venue, Colva's nightlife is livelier than anywhere else in south Goa, thanks to its ever-growing contingent of young package tourists. The two most happening nightspots are down in the dunes south of the beachfront area: splash boasts a big MTV satellite screen and music to match, and a late bar and disco that liven up around 10.00 pm.

A sandy plod just south of here, posier Ziggy's boast Goa's only air conditioned dance floor, a thumping Indian Ragga and Techno sound system, and a sociable terrace littered with wicker easy chairs. If one prefers to get plastered somewhere affordable and less pretentious, try Johnny Cool's midway between the beach and Colva crossroads. Men Mar, on the Vasco Road, also serves beers, snacks and Lassis until around 10.30 pm.

PLACES TO STAY

Mirroring the village's rapid rise as a package tour resort, Colva's plentiful accommodation ranges from swish campuses of chalets and swimming pools to a fair selection of good value guesthouses in between. Most of the mid and top of the range places are strung out along the Main Beach Road or just behind it. Budget rooms lie amid the more peaceful palm groves and paddy fields north of here: the quarter known as Ward 4, which is accessible via the path that winds north from Johnny Cool's Restaurant, or from the other side via a lane leading west off the Main Colva-Vasco Road.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Rent A Bike: To rent a motorcycle, ask around the taxi rank, or in front of Vincy's Hotel, where 100cc Yamahas are on offer at the usual rates. Fuel is sold by the Bisleri bottle from a little house behind the Menino Jesus College, just east of William's Resort. This is the only fuel stop in Colva.

Exchange: Meeting point travel between William's Resort and the crossroads, exchanges Travellers' Cheques and cash at a little under bank rates.

Post Office: The post office opposite the church in the village has a small but reliable Poste Restante Box.

Books: Damodar Book store, on the beachfront, stocks a good selection of reasonably priced second hand paperbacks in English. They also do part exchange, and have the best range of postcards in Colva.
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DONA PAULA BEACH

Location: 7-km From Panaji, North Goa
Popularly Known As: The Lover's Paradise
Water Sports: Water Scootering
Nearby Attractions: Marmagao Harbour
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At the place where two of Goa's famous rivers meet the Arabian Sea is the secluded bay of Dona Paula with a fine view of the Marmagao Harbour. 7-km from Panjim, nestled on the south side of the rocky, hammer-shaped headland that divides the Zuari and Mandovi estuaries, this former fishing village is nowadays a commercialized resort. This is an idyllic spot to relax and sunbathe. Water scootering facilities are also available over here.

The official residence of the Governor of Goa, Known as Cabo Raj Bhavan is situated on the westernmost tip of Dona Paula. Along the road leading to this place lies the ruins of the small military cemetery the British built at their brief occupation of the Cabo, to deter the French from invading Goa.

A Love Story
Named after Dona Paula de Menezes, this place is called the Lovers Paradise due to a myth that has been attached to this place. According one legend the Viceroy's daughter after facing objections from her family about her love affair with a poor fisherman jumped of the cliff.

Another legend says that punished for captivating Francisco de Tavora, the Count of Alvor with her charm the Viceroy's daughter was pushed off a cliff to drown in the waters below. Her irrepressible spirit still continues to haunt every visitor with legends of her lovers. She is even supposed to have been seen emerging from moonlit waves wearing only a pearl necklace. Water Sports
Tranquil and blue, Dona Paula unravel the ultimate in aquatic sport and fun.Dona Paula Sports Club, Dona Paula offers some of the best water sports facilities to the sports enthusiasts including Water-scooter rides, Motor-boat rides, etc.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road & By Ferry: Take a bus or motorcycle-taxi from Panjim or the ferry service from Marmagao. Buses to Miramar & Dona Paula leave every fifteen minutes from Panjim's Kadamba Bus Stand. One can also pick them up from the steamer jetty, and at various points along the waterfront.

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MIRAMAR BEACH

Location: 3-km From Panjim, North Goa
Also Known As: Gasper Dias
Nearby Attraction: Aguada Fort
Best Time To Visit: November To March
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On the way to Dona Paula, 1-km ahead of the confluence of the Arabian Sea and Mandvi River, under the palm shade, is "Gasper Dias" or Miramar Beach and is just 3-km away from the capital city of Panjim.

In Portuguese language 'Miramar' stand for viewing the sea. Situated on a good location for evening walks, the coast is spread upto 2-km, having a fine silvery sand bed. From here one has an excellent view of the Aguada fort just across the Mandovi River.
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PALOLEM BEACH

Location: 2-km West Of Chaudi, Canacona District, South Goa
Major Attractions: Boat parties, Prime Tour Destination
Nearby Attraction: Agonda, Chaudi
Best Time To Visit: November To March
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The Tiny Bay
Palolem, 2-km west of Chaudi, pops up more often in glossy holiday brochures than any other beach in Goa; not because the village is a major package tour destination, but because its crescent shaped bay lined with a swaying curtain of coconut palms, is irresistibly photogenic. Hemmed in by a pair of wooded headlands, a perfect curve of white sand arcs north from a pile of hug boulders to the spur of Sahyadri Ghat, which here tapers into the sea.

Until recently foreign tourists were few and far between in Palolem. Over the past five or six years, however, increasing numbers of budget travellers have begun to find their way here, and the village is now far from the undiscovered idyll it used to be, with a string of cafes, Karnatakan hawkers and a tent camp crowding the beachfront.

Souvenir stalls have also sprung up, catering mainly for the mini-van and boat parties of charter tourists on day trips from resorts further north. In spite of these encroachments, Palolem remains a resolutely traditional village, where the easy pace of life is dictated more by the three daily rounds of Todi (also spelt as Toddy) tapping than the exigencies of tourism.

LEISURE

EATING OUT
With the beach now lined along its entire length with brightly lit shack cafes, finding somewhere to eat in Palolem is not a problem, although the locals have to buy in most of their fish from Margao and Karwar. The one outstanding place is the Classic Restaurant, where one can tuck into delicious, freshly baked Western wholefood and cakes.

More popular among budget travellers, though, is Sun 'n' Moon, behind the middle of the beach; when it closes, the die-hard drinkers head through the palm trees to nearby Dylan's Bar, which stays open until the last customer has staggered home. For optimum sunset views of the bay, head for the obscurely named Found Things bar and restaurant, at the far southern end of Palolem beach, which faces west. Travellers on tight budgets should also note the row of tiny Bhaji stalls outside the Beach Resort, where one can order tasty and filling breakfasts of Pao Bhaji, fluffy bread rolls, Omlettes and Chai (tea) for next to nothing.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Buses run between Margao and Karwar via Chaudi where one can pick up an auto rickshaw or taxi to Palolem. Alternatively, get off at the Char Rostay crossroads, 1.5-km before Chaudi, and walk the remaining kilometre or so to the village. A couple of buses each day also goes all the way to Palolem from Margao; these stop at the end of the lane leading from the main street to the beachfront. The last bus from Palolem to Chaudi/ Margao leaves at 4.30pm; check with the local for the times, which change seasonally.

PLACES TO STAY

With the exception of the beach Resort's tent camp and a handful or recently built guesthouses, most of Palolem's accommodation consists of simple rooms in family homes, with basic washing and toilet facilities shared by visitors and members of the household. The budget places, however are to be found in Colomb, around the headland south of Palolem village, where Hindu fishing families rent rooms, and occasionally small houses, to long- staying foreigners.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

Cycles On Rent: Cycles may be rented from a stall halfway along the main street.

Phone: The village has only a couple of public telephones, but avoid the one in the beach resort, which charges more than double the going rate for international calls, and head for the reasonable ISD/STD booth next to the bus stop.

Exchange: At present, there is nowhere in Palolem or Chaudi to change money; the nearest bank with a foreign exchange facility is in Margao
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VAGATOR BEACH

Location: Near Mapusa Road, North Goa
Major Attraction: Ramshackle Farmhouses, Old Portuguese Bungalows
Nearby Attraction: Anjuna Beach, Chapora Fort
Best Time To Visit: September To March.
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Barely a couple of kilometres of cliff tops and parched grassland separate Anjuna from the southern fringes of its nearest neighbour, Vagator. A desultory collection of ramshackle farmhouses and picturesque old Portuguese bungalows scattered around a network of leafy lanes, the village is entered at the east via a branch off the Mapusa Road, which passes a few small guesthouses and restaurants before running down to the sea.

Dominated by the red ramparts of Chapora Fort, Vagator's broad white sandy beach - Big Vagator Beach also known, as "Little Vagator" is undeniably beautiful, just like a picture postcard.

For better, then, to head to the next cove south. Backed by a steep wall of crumbling palm-fringed laterite, Ozran Vagator beach is more secluded and much less accessible than either of its neighbours. To get there, walk ten minutes from Big Vagator, or drive to the end of the lane off the main Chapora-Anjuna Road, from where a footpath drops sharply down to a wide stretch of level white sand.

At this southern end of the beach, a row of makeshift cafes provides shade and sustenance for a predominantly Israeli crowd. Like Anjuna, Vagator is a relaxed, comparatively undeveloped resort that appeals, in the main, to budget travellers with time on their hands. Accommodation is limited, however, and visitors frequently find themselves travelling to and from Baga every day to find a suitable place to stay.

LEISURE

EATING OUT AND NIGHTLIFE
Vagator's many cafes and restaurants are scattered along the main road and the back lanes that lead to Ozran Beach. There are also several seafood joints behind Big Vagator Beach, one or two of which serve Indian dishes in addition to the usual fish rich Goan specialties. Nightlife focuses on the Primrose café, out towards Anjuna, which boasts a beefier than average sound system, and a later bar.

HOW TO GET THERE

Road: Buses leave Panaji (a 55- minute ride) and Mapusa (a 30-minute ride) for Vagator every 15 minutes. From the bus stop it is a 1-km walk over a hill to the beach. Most of the accommodation, restaurants and cafes are located in this area. Panaji, Goa is accessible by air from all the major cities of the country. There are adequate train and bus connections also from other cities.

PLACES TO STAY

Accommodation in Vagator revolves around a few family run budget guesthouses, a pricey resort hotel and dozens of small private properties rented out for long periods.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Exchange: The Primrose Café, on the south side of the village, has a foreign exchange license but their rates are well above those on offer at the banks in Mapusa and Calangute.

Medical: If one needs medical attention, contact Dr. Jawarhalal Henriques at Zorin, near the petrol pump in Chapora.
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VARCA BEACH

Location: 2-km South Of Benaulim Beach, South Goa
Major Attractions: Wooden fishing boats
Nearby Attraction: Benaulim Beach, Margao
Best Time To Visit : November To March
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If one staying in Benaulim, one is bound at some point to visit Varca: the row of beached wooden fishing boats 2-km south of Benaulim belong to its community of Christian fisher folk, whose palm thatched long houses line the foot of the grassy dunes.

PLACES TO STAY

It is possible to find rooms to rent in family houses by asking around the village. Facilities are ultra basic, but if is looking for somewhere authentically Goan, yet not too far off track, Varca is worth considering. A bicycle and cooking equipment are essential for long spells.

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WATER SPORTS IN GOA

Goa Adventure Sports: Water Sports
Famous Sports: Water Scootering, Para Sailing, Wind Surfing, Water Skiing
Water Sports Centres: Aaron Rishika Adventures, Aqua Sports India
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Goa is a paradise for water sport lovers. The long coastal area offers a wonderful opportunity to indulge in all sorts of water sport activities. A number of government and private organizations including hotels and tour operators conduct regular water sport activities including training courses at a very nominal rate for tourists. Here we list the major water sport activities along with the names of orgnisations or centres involved.

Cidade de Goa five star hotel - para-sailing, wind surfing and water-skiing.

Taj Holiday Village Resort, Candolim - water sports facilities in its beach.

Goan Banana's. c/o Casa Goana restaurant, Cobra Vaddo, Baga road, Calangute

Agencies Goa
Goan Banana's, Cobra Vaddo, Baga road, Calangute Le Marine, Sauntawaddo, Baga
Barracuda Diving, Vainguinim beach, Dona Paula.
C C Cats Cruise Boats, Davidair,
Calangute Vailankanni Stores, Candolim.

Water Sports Centres / Organisations

1.	AARON RISHIKA ADVENTURES	Office Address Sinquerim, Bardez, Goa - 403 519. Location Address Sinquerim, Bardez, Goa - 403 519.
2.	AQUA SPORTS INDIA	Office Address 5th Floor, Nizari Bhavan, Menezes Braganza Road, Panaji, Goa - 403 001. Contact Person: Mr. Anil Madgaonkar Location Address Tourism Jetty, Patto, Panaji, Goa. Activities Fishing, Motor Boat Rides, Scuba Diving, Snorkelling, Water Scooter Rides
3.	BOGMALO BEACH PARK PLAZA RESORT	Office Address Bogmalo Beach, Bogmalo, Goa - 403 806 Activities Body Boards, Motor Boat Rides, Parasailing, Water Scooter Rides, Water Skiing, Windsurfing
4.	DOLPHIN ADVENTURE SPORTS LTD.	Office Address Survey No. 251/25, Kurkuta, Dona Paola, Goa - 403 004. Contact Person: Mr. Malcom Coelho Location Address The Promenade, Ourem Boating Centre, Ourem, Patto, Panaji, Goa. Activities Boating, Entertainment
5.	DOMINIC WATER SPORTS	Office Address Sinquerim Beach, Bardez, Goa - 403 519. Activities Canoeing, Water Scooter Rides, Water Skiing, Windsurfing
6.	FORT AGUADA BEACH RESORT	Office Address Sinquerim, Bardez, Goa - 403 519. Contact Person: Mr. Prakash Shirlekar Location Address Sinquerim, Bardez, Goa - 403 519. Activities Banana Rides, Coastal Cruise (North Goa), Crocodile Cruise, Dolphin Cruise, Fishing, Jet Ski, Knee Boarding, Parasailing, Ringo Rides, Speed Boating, Water Skiing and Training, Windsurfing and Training, Sailing and Training
7.	GOA DIVING	Office Address Joet's Guest House, Bogmalo Beach, Vasco, Goa - 403 806. Contact Person: Mr. William Downie Location Address House No. 145P, Chapel Bhat, Chicalim, Goa - 403 711. Activities Dive Master Course, Guided Dives, Medic First Aid Course, Open Water Diver Course, Rescue Diver Course, Scuba Experience Special Features Own Pool used solely for Goa Diving's Training Courses.
8.	GOA TOURISM DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION	Office Address Lake Resort, Mayem lake, Bicholim, Goa - 403 504. Activities Dinghy Sailing, Pedal / Rowing Boat Rides, Poly - Cat (2 seater)
9.	GOA YACHTING ASSOCIATION	Office Address P.O. Box - 33, Panaji, Goa - 403 001. Activities Dinghy Sailing, Windsurfing
10.	GOAN BANANA'S WATERSPORTS	Office Address Opposite Hacienda Hotel, Baga Road, Calangute, Goa. Contact Person: Mr. Camilo M. Fernandes Location Address Baga, Calangute and Candolim Beaches. Activities Backwater Crocodile Cruise, Banana Rides, Boat Rides, Bumper Rides, Dolphin Cruise, Fishing, Parasailing, Water Skiing Special Feature Personal Insurance facility is available.
11.	HYDRO SPORTS	Office Address Hotel Cidade-de-Goa, Vainguinim Beach, Dona Paula, Goa - 403 004. Activities Dinghy Sailing, Harpoon Fishing, Kayaking, Motor Boat Rides, Parasailing, Ski Biscuit, Ski Bob, Skurfer, Snorkelling, Sports Fishing, Toboggan, Water Cycle Rides, Water Scooter Rides, Water-skiing, Yacht Sailing
12.	NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF WATER SPORTS	Office Address NIWS, Sundial Apts., A.S. Road, Near Doordarshan Kendra, Altinho, Panaji, Goa - 403 001. Contact Person: Mr. Lalit Negi, Manager (Training) Location Address Near Dona Paula Circle, Caranzalem, Goa. Activities Technical Courses for Water sports Centre Operators - OBM Maintenance, FRP Boat Repair, Life Saving Techniques, Power Boat Handling, Water sport Management & Communication Skills. Water sport Skill Courses - Windsurfing, Dinghy Sailing, Water Skiing Hire of Equipment - Windsurfers, Sailing Dinghies, Water Skis, Kayaks and Boats Consultancy Services for feasibility reports and equipment procurement. Special Feature NIWS is a Goa premier water sports training establishment of the Department of Tourism, Government of India.
13.	THE LEELA PALACE GOA	Office Address Mobor, Cavelossim, Salcete, Goa - 403 731. Activities Boating, Dinghy Sailing, Sailing, Windsurfing
14.	VENTURE SPORTS	Office Address Surfside Holiday Home, Candolim Beach, Panaji, Goa - 403 515. Contact Person: Mr. Louis Demello Location Address Candolim Beach (Camotim Vaddo) Activities Backwater/Crocodile Cruise, Banana Rides, Body Boarding, Coastal Cruise, Dolphin Cruise, Fishing Trips, Knee Boarding, Parasailing, Ringo Rides, Water Skiing, Windsurfing Special Features Island special cruise includes all drinks, mineral water, soft drink and beer, BBQ Lunch, Rod fishing and Snorkelling (minimum 4 persons) Training for Windsurfing and Water Skiing
15.	WATER SPORTS GOA	Office Address Bogmalo Beach, Bogmalo, Goa - 403 806. Activities Body Boards, Canoeing, Catamaran Rides, Dinghy Sailing, Fishing, Motor Boat Rides, Parascending, Scuba Diving, Snorkelling, Water Scooter Ride, Water Skiing / Fun Skiing, Windsurfing
16.	WESTERN INDIA PARAGLIDING ASSOCIATION	Office Address C/o Mr. J. Deshprabhu, Cunha Rivara Road, Panaji, Goa - 403 001. Contact Person: Mr. Jitendra Deshprabhu Location Address Arambol, Pernem, Goa Activities Training and Tandem Rides off the beautiful coast of Arambol. Equipments also available on hire. Paragliding tours throughout Goa on request.

Football
Football is another love of Goans. Football first arrived in Goa in 1883. The Goan Football Association, established in 1959, is in the fore front of conducting regular league matches in Goa. Goa is the first ever Indian state to introduce professional football in the country. The top five Goan football teams are Churchill Brothers Sports Club, Salgaokar Sports Club, Dempo Sports Club, Vasco Sports Club and VLM Sports Club. Goan Footballers have brought many a laurel to the state and the country at national and international arena. Today thGoa ere are 150 registered football clubs and 3407 registered players in Goa. If you are a football lover and in Goa, to know the latest happening, just get in touch with

Goa Football Association
2nd Floor, Padmavati Towers
18th June Road, Panaji
Goa - 403 001.


Trekking
Though Goan inland does not have high mountains, small or medium sizes hills not exceeding a couple of thousand feet in height offer some chances to go for a short trekking. Some old temples are also located on hilltop and trekking the way up amidst a deep jungle is an enjoyable experience.

Golf
The Leela Beach and Ramada Renaissance, both in south Goa, have small nine hole courses.

Bullfights
It doesnt pay to abe a matador in goa. Here, bullfights are between two bulls, no matador needed. The fighting season starts around early October and lasts till May. The most popular locations are in one of the villages around Panjim like Taleigao (the most famous fights are held here), Santa Cruz or Caranzalem. They are also held near and around Margao in south Goa at the villages of Velsao and Benaulim. The fights usually begin around 4 pm, after siesta to the sound of taped Konkani music.